‘Zucchini rosette on roasted Pico de Gallo’, is announced at the table as a heavily bangled hand delicately places the amuse-bouche in front of me. The exquisitely carved rose looks too pretty to be destroyed instantly, so I give it the momentary reverence it deserves before I dig in. Soon after, the server is back for clearance with a smile on her thinly veiled face, and I cannot help but be both floored and surprised by the juxtaposition. For the first time in all my travels across Rajasthan, thelaal maastakes the backseat as plant consciousness in the desert is being revived with shy, bejewelled women stepping ahead of men in turbans and moustaches, and leading guests through the world of fine dining and fusion food.
The cuisine of Rajasthan has two main factors that influenced it– the desert, and war. Food that could grow in arid conditions, and dishes that could be preserved for longer periods, took precedence. Traditional Rajasthani food has its roots in the cuisine of the Marwar region which was predominantly vegetarian. But, the influence of the smaller, game-meat-eating, Rajput sect on modern-day Rajasthani food is undeniable. As tourism in the state grew, dishes like laal maas became synonymous with Rajasthani food and the truth of the cuisine’s vegetarian origins blurred in the background. In a bid to revive this dormant interest in Rajasthani fare’s green history, a few enterprising outfits are striving to bring it back into the limelight with their plant-based initiatives.
Hands-on farming experiences at Mharokhet
25 kilometres from Jodhpur city at Mharokhet, where I dine under the stars screened only by guava trees that are dotted with fairy lights and lanterns, I find myself deep in conversation with Rajnush Agarwal and Vedika Prasad, the young couple that runs this farm and curates exquisite plant-forward meals here. Rajnush is an entrepreneur with a passion for sustainable agriculture, while Vedika has experience in the development sector and a keen eye for design. “The lockdown gave us the perfect chance to explore and pour ourselves into this farming project which incorporates our skills and passion”, says Rajnush. From experimenting with growing exotic vegetables and rearing the perfect oyster mushrooms, to learning via online classes and conducting sessions for staff, and from training local women in hospitality to designing everything from scratch, they channelled their drive into their new profession. Mharokhet is their 40-acre ancestral farm near Jodhpur that was only cultivated earlier for personal use but has now been expanded into the commercial realm by this enterprising couple.
Apart from the agricultural tours they conduct and the experiential meals they organise, what stands out is their refreshing take on the evolution of food in Rajasthan and the richness of its plant-based foods. The entire menu —put together by the owners and chef Sejal Jain, a former IHCL chef who returned to her hometown Jodhpur in the lockdown—is created from whatever grows on the farm. From world cuisine to regional delights, every bite is filled with earthy goodness bound to create an impression on the most devoted meat lover. I finish my conversation and meal with a delightful guava crumble, the main ingredient growing right above my head, and the soulful voice ofmanganiyars in the distance, climbing deep into the night sky.
