How to Grow Brussels Sprouts: The Complete Guide (2024)

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Photo Credit

Pixabay

Botanical Name

Brassica oleracea

Plant Type

Vegetable

Sun Exposure

Full Sun

Soil pH

Neutral to Slightly Alkaline

Slightly Acidic to Neutral

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Brussels Sprouts

Catherine Boeckmann

About BrusselsSprouts

Named for Brussels, Belgium, where they were first cultivated in the 16th century, brussels sprouts are a vegetable that is commonly seen in the grocery store, but not-as-commonly seen in the home garden. This is probably because they aren’t the easiest vegetable to grow!They require a fairly long growing season (80–100 days to harvest) and are a cool-season crop, meaning that they produce best when grown for a fall or early winter harvest. The sproutsimprove in flavor after a light frost ortwo.

As long as you plant them at the right time, keep them cool and well watered during the heat of summer, and protect them from pests, brussels sprouts are a rewarding vegetable crop to grow—anaccomplishment!

Brussels sprouts are a cultivar (cultivated variety) of wild cabbage,Brassica oleracea, which is the same plant species that cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, and a number of other popular food crops stem from. Over generations and generations, this versatile plant has been bred in different ways to highlight its different features—flowers, leaves, buds, stem, and root—to provide us with a wide variety of foods! Brussels sprouts form as buds along the main stem of the plant, just above each leafaxil.

Planting

Choose a planting site that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day).Raised beds are especially recommended for cool-season vegetables, especially in the spring and fall, when temperatures are notconsistent.

Soil should be well-draining and moderately fertile. Work several inches of aged manure and/or compost into the soil to improve soil fertility andtexture.

When to Plant BrusselsSprouts

Due to brussels sprouts’ need for a long growing season, we recommend planting them with a fall or winter harvest in mind. They do best when allowed to mature during the cool days offall.

To determine the optimum planting time, count backwards from your first fall frost date using the “days to maturity” listed on the seed packet. Generally, this means sowing brussels sprout seeds about 4 months before your first fall frostdate.

In regions with cold winters, where winter temperatures are often below freezing, start seedsin early to mid-summer. Plants will mature for a mid-fall or early winterharvest.
In regions with mild or warm winters, where winter temperatures are occasionallyor rarely below freezing, start seedsin mid- to late summer. Plants will maturefor a mid- to late winterharvest.

Brussels sprouts may be started from seed indoors or sown directly into the garden. We recommend starting seeds indoors, as this gives seedlings a headstart and helps to protect them from summer heat and pests. Direct-sown seeds can take a few weeks longer to mature, so add 20 days to your planting date calculation if you plan to sow outdoors. (In other words, sow seeds outdoors about 20 days earlier than if you were starting themindoors.)

How to Plant BrusselsSprouts

Sow seeds about ½ inchdeep.
If direct-sowing seeds outdoors, sow seeds about 2 to 3 inches apart. (Seedlings should be thinned to 12 to 24 inches apart when they reach about 6 inchestall.)
Plant seedlings 12 to 24 inchesapart.
Water well at time ofsowing/transplanting.

Growing

Thin young plants to 12 to 24 inches apart when they reach 6 inchestall.
Fertilize with a nitrogen-rich product after thinning. Repeat every 3 to 4weeks.
Mulch to retain moisture and keep the soil temperature cool throughsummer.
If growing during hot weather, be sure to keep the plants well watered. Inconsistent moisture can lead to subpar sprout development. Brussels sprouts should receive about 1 to 1½ inches of water per square foot perweek.
Consider using row covers to protect young plants from pests. Brussels sprouts are usually planted outdoors right when pests are at theirworst!
Do not disturb the soil around the plants;roots are shallow and susceptible todamage.
Brussels sprout plants usually reach heights of 2 to 3 feet, so plan accordingly; they may requirestaking.
Remove yellowing leaves at the bottom of the plant to allow for more sunlight on the stalk and to focus plant energy on healthygrowth.
To encourage the sprouts to mature faster, cut off the top leaves 3 to 4 weeks before harvest.
- Note: If you intend toharvest sprouts into winter, leave the top leaves of the plant intact; they provide protection from snow. Also, cover plants with 10 to 12 inches ofmulch.

Types

‘Churchill’ is an early maturing plant, adaptable to mostclimates.
‘Diablo’ is known as a heavyproducer.
‘Falstaff’ has a red/purple hue that holds whencooked
‘Jade Cross’is a high-yield compact plant, resistant to some diseases and known for its tolerance for hotterweather.
‘Long Island Improved’ is an heirloom and a compact plant that prefers a coolsummer.
‘Oliver’ is an early-maturing variety with a shorter growing season requirement(80–90days).

Harvesting

Sprouts mature from the bottom of the stalk upwards. Harvest sprouts from the bottomwhen they reach about 1 inch indiameter.
If desired, after a moderate frost, pull up the entire stalk, roots and all. (Remove leaves first.) Then hang stalk upside down in a cool, dry basem*nt or garage orbarn.
Store stalks (no roots) for about 1 month in a root cellar orbasem*nt.

How to Store BrusselsSprouts

Do not wash the sprouts before storing them, only right beforeuse.
Keep fresh-picked sproutsin a plastic bag for up to 5 daysin therefrigerator.

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts: The Complete Guide (5)

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Wit and Wisdom

In 2013, a team of scientists and schoolchildren lit an 8-foot-tall Christmas tree in London with the energy from 1,000 brussels sprouts (a total of about 62volts).

Pests/Diseases

Brussels Sprouts Pests andDiseases

Pest/Disease	Type	Symptoms	Control/Prevention
Aphids	Insect	Misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold	Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Black rot	Fungus	Yellow, V-shape areas on leaf edges that brown and progress toward leaf center; leaves eventually collapse; stem cross sections reveal blackened veins	Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; remove plant debris; rotate crops
Cabbage loopers	Insect	Large, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement	Handpick; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; spray larvae with insecticidal soap or Bt; use row covers; remove plant debris
Cabbage root maggots	Insect	Wilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on roots	Use collars around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; rotate crops
Cabbageworms	Insect	Leaves have large, ragged holes or are skeletonized; heads bored; dark green excrement; yellowish eggs laid singly on leaf undersides	Handpick; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; grow companion plants (especially thyme); spray Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
Clubroot	Fungus	Wilted/stunted plants; yellow leaves; roots appear swollen/distorted	Destroy infected plants; solarize soil; maintain soil pH of around 7.2; disinfect tools; rotate crops
Downy mildew	Fungus	Yellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation	Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Flea beetles	Insect	Numerous tiny holes in leaves	Use row covers; mulch heavily; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Stinkbugs	Insect	Yellow/white blotches on leaves; scarred, dimpled, or distorted fruit/pods; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersides	Destroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall
White mold	Fungus	Pale gray, “water-soaked” areas on stems, leaves, and other plant parts that enlarge and develop white, cottony growth, later with black particles; bleached areas; crowns/sprouts rot; plants wilt/collapse	Destroy infected plants; ensure good air circulation; water in morning; weed; destroy crop residue; rotating crops on 5-year or longer cycle may help

Recipes

Cream of Brussels Sprouts Soup

Easiest Brussels Sprouts

Brussels Sprouts With Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Cooking Notes

We prefer roasting sprouts—they have a lovely carmelizedflavor!

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

Add a Comment

I am starting my brussel sprouts indoors but can not find any info on how to start them indoors. Do they need heat to germinate? any help would be appreciated.

Hi All,
This is my first year growing brussel sprouts. Actually did it on a whim. What a surprise I was in for!
The seller I bought the house from in 2020, were not Gardner’s, but I found raised beds on the side of the house. (3) 5X8’. I found everything in there from old dish towels, broken and rusted steel pipes, an old broken weed eater, plastic bags… you name it.

When the Brussels Sprout package said to plant of thin to 12-24”, they mean it!
Next year I’ll stretch it out to maybe 30-35 inches.

I removed the garbage, weeds and everything else.
I put in 3 bags of commercial compost, mixed it into the existing soil, and experimented.
On one side of the bed I planted carrots, the other side I put in 3 Sprout plants.
3 plants in 8 feet is not enough room. ( Best 60 carrots I’ve every grown!)
The plants are every bit of 3 feet high and have hundreds of sprouts on each.
One of them, I suppose he felt squished, started growing side shoots next to the ground and those created their own root and are baring sprouts all on their own.

The first frost has come and gone.
I light snow.
So Today I’m going to start harvesting dinner size portions off the main stalk.
We’ll see how it goes.

This was our first year growing brussel sprouts. We kept waiting for them to show up above the plant. We finally realized they were below the large leaves. So funny! We also grow carrots and I can’t believe how delicious they are! Enjoy your gardening.

I planted Brussel Sprouts last summer as an experiment and the plants did not do very well, possibly due to weather condition. Had no sign of sprouts. After the snow melted this spring, I was surprised to see them come alive, specially one particular one that grew very tall within a month and then it flowered. However many plants have started to come out of the stem (which has become quite thick and tough by now). Can I grow them from what looks like new plants? If so, how?
One of these have grown 1 feet tall but again no sign of sprouts formation. Can I relocate it to a more fertile location?

Loads of large leaves , where are the sprouts hiding? Do I trim back any leaves? It is the end of September but no frost yet?

The sprouts appear underneath the leaves—look at the bas of each leaf and a small sprout should beforming.

Hi there,
Due to beetles that came off canola fields in spring, I tried three times to plant seedlings, and it finally took in late June. We just had a few weeks of hot weather (30+C). The Brussels sprouts seemed to stop growing, but still had a crown of leaves. Now that it’s cooled down, the crown has opened and the stems have thickened considerably. The stems went from maybe 1/2-1” diameter to about 3”. Should I be concerned? There are little nobs, but nothing looking like it would form a sprout at the stem axels… any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Brussels sprouts are heavy feeders, so they need a rich organic soil of aged manure and compost. (There can almost never be enough!) They tend to do best in cool weather, from the time they are set out to the fall, when a frost sets on them. You also need to check the soil pH; it should be more or less in the middle.The hot weather (yes, it’s summer, it’s going to be hot) may have slowed them down but I/we suspect it’s a soil-based problem. We’ve experienced it too. You could try to amend the soil as soon as possible and see if you see any change but it may be too late to expect a luscious golf-ball-sizesprouts.

I planted Brilliant brussel plants in raised bed end of may, still no Brussels. I’ve read to add nitrogen to aid development, should I add manure? Or should I leave a bit longer to see what happens? Any advice? Thank you

Something’s wrong; they may not be salvageable at this point. It’s not clear if you started seeds but it sounds like it. If so, you are probably not going to get anything.B-sprouts are best started indoors, well in advance of the growing season (see above). Theyare heavy feeders that demand rich, fertile soil—the more aged manure, the better, and compost—but usually from the beginning, when seedlings are set out. Before you go to any trouble, you might want to check the soil pH.B-sprouts need soil to have a moderate pH; 6 to 7 is good. It can take a season or so to change that so check it first. Finally, when or if b-sproutsappear, know that they can benefit from nitrogen, but not toexcess.

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