Ask the Test Kitchen: Use baking powder to help crisp poultry skin (2024)

QUESTION: Can you use baking powder as a tenderizer for beef, like a steak? — Sheldon Lublin, West Bloomfield

ANSWER: I found several sources that recommend using baking soda as a tenderizer for tougher cuts of beef, but not baking powder. You can also use baking soda to tenderize chicken and pork. But baking powder has an effect on poultry skin (more on this later).

When you tenderize meat, chances are you are using a chemical tenderizer that has papaya extract in it. Or you just pound the heck out of it to break down the tough fibers.

To use baking soda to tenderize a tough cut of meat, rub the baking soda all over the meat and let it sit, refrigerated for several hours, according to “Baking Soda” by Vicki Lansky (Book Peddlars, $8.95). Rinse the baking soda off just before cooking.

The folks at Cook’s Illustrated magazine say you can soak the meat in a solution of baking soda and water for 15 to 20 minutes. At www.cooksillustrated.com they explain that the solution “raises the pH on the meat’s surface, making it more difficult for the proteins to bond excessively, which keeps the meat tender and moist when it’s cooked.”

Baking soda is also used a lot on meat and poultry for stir-frys. The general rule is 1 teaspoon baking soda per pound of meat when using it as a tenderizer.

For individual tender steaks, like a rib-eye, stick to a marinade or a commercial meat tenderizer. Or season simply with a generous amount of salt and some black pepper.

Now, on to that baking powder and how it effects poultry skin.

You can use baking powder in a seasoning mixture or with salt and rub it on the skin of chicken or turkey, which helps crisp the skin. I’ve had much success with this method, especially when grilling a whole turkey breast and Cornish hens. My unscientific explanation is that baking powder contains cornstarch, which is a moisture absorber, and an alkali (baking soda) or an acid. Therefore, I presume it dehydrates the skin.

The drier the skin, the faster it will crisp. Rub the baking powder mixture all over the poultry skin and refrigerate at least a few hours or overnight.

Ask the Test Kitchen: Use baking powder to help crisp poultry skin (2024)
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