4 easy ways to keep the sulfur smell of cooked brassicas under control (2024)

Roasted Cauliflower.JPG

Roasting is one way to keep brassicas like cauliflower from developing strong sulfurous smells that come from overcooking them.

(Oregonian file photo)

I'm digging into Portland food writer (and Oregonian contributor)

's brand-new cookbook

which features 80 inventive recipes for cooking cruciferous vegetables like kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower.

These are vegetables that are loaded with all sorts of healthful benefits, but many home cooks avoid because they associate them with strong smells, usually caused by boiling them to death, which breaks down the cell walls of the vegetables and releases sulfurous gasses.

But Russell offers four great strategies for keeping the smell down.

Freshness:

You want the freshest vegetables possible, and you want to use them soon after buying. At the store, give the veggies a smell. If there's a strong aroma, that cauliflower or cabbage is probably past its prime.

Cooking:

Extended boiling is what makes brassicas so stinky. While a quick blanch is OK for some, try roasting, sautéing or steaming to keep the smells down.

Cooking times:

In general, the longer that brassicas are cooked, the greater the chance that they'll release sulfur compounds. Most will cook in 15 minutes or less.

Leftovers:

Sometimes when you open a container of leftover Brussels sprouts or cauliflower, you're hit with a big whiff of sulfur. That's because the vegetables were probably contained before they had cooled completely, causing a buildup of sulfur.

Look for a full feature on "Brassicas," including a chat with Russell and a selection of recipes, next month.

-- Grant Butler